ch.one Ryzen build: The setup
Back in September I started my first build (based on an AMD Ryzen 7) with a custom hardline water loop. My intention was to start a build log asap but I wanted to launch the new blog switch/case first.
Well, that was fast!
The rig is for my brother and mainly used for video production and office work. He switches a lot between close-to-a-million browser tabs, Photoshop and other editing tools. This meant we would need a lot of RAM and a blazing fast NVMe. Worth a mention is also a capable GPU for rendering. I would have gone with a GTX 1080 TI or a dual SLI setup, but that would have overrun our budget (partially due to the crypto-mining explosion).
- Case: PHANTEKS Enthoo Evolv ATX TG
- MoBo: MSI X370 SLI Plus
- CPU: AMD Ryzen 7 1700X
- SSD: Samsung 960 EVO NVMe 1TB
- PSU: Corsair HX750i
- RAM: Corsair Vengeance LPX DDR4-3000 32GB
- GPU: EVGA GeForce GTX 1080 Superclocked 8GB
- Pump+Reservior: EKWB XRES 140 Revo D5 PWM
- Radiator: EKWB CoolStream CE 280
- GPU: EKWB FC1080 GTX Nickel + Backplate
- CPU: EKWB Supremacy EVO AMD
- RAM: EKWB Monarch (not connected to loop)
- NVMe: EKWB M.2 NVMe Heatsink
- Fans: EKWB Vardar EVO 140S PWM + Phanteks (came with case)
- Liquid: Mayhems Pastel (Gigabyte Orange)
- Fittings+Adapters: EKWB
I bought a lot of additional stuff, which I don't want to talk in detail here. This mainly includes tools, LED setup, cables and sleeves, as well as pump bracket, valve, splitters and plugs for the loop.
What could go wrong ...
As it turned out, a lot!
As listed above I bought the GPU water block FC1080 GTX Nickel from EKWB, which is compatible with the Founders Edition (reference PCB) of the GTX 1080.
I started dismantling and cleaning the INNO3D GTX 1080 iChill X4 so I could attach the water block only to find out that its PCB is not the reference design ...ouch. Well, an hour later it was re-assembled and ready to get sold on eBay. 1-2 weeks later my new card - the EVGA Superclocked - arrived.
Anyway, here's a neat warning on the INNO3D packaging. Great people over there!
Another purchase failure I made was getting the acrylic glass tubes from EKWB. I thought I could handle them, but they were obviously to hard to work with for my first build. At least they were cheap. I switched to the PETG material and bought them from bitspower. They are way more flexible and easier to bend.
If you really want to start with hardline/rigid tubing (instead of soft), start with PETG. It's a lot more forgiving and easier to work with. Buy about double the length you've measured, so there's room for practice and mistakes.
Before starting the fun part I installed the hardware to see if everything works as expected. For the CPU I got a cheap Arctic cooler.
Ten minutes later the PC was already running and the POST routines succeeded. I checked some stats in the UEFI and voila, we are done with Part 1 of the ch.one build.
In Part 2 I will prepare all components for the water loop.